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Concrete Repair – Improving Safety and Extending the Lifespan of Structures
Concrete is an extremely durable material, but it can be damaged by weathering and heavy use. Addressing this damage can improve safety and extend the lifespan of concrete structures.
There are several methods for repairing concrete, depending on the extent and cause of the damage. Structural repairs are needed to repair cracks that impact the integrity of a concrete surface. Decorative repairs are needed to repair spalling and surface wear. Contact Concrete Repair Dallas for professional help.
Preparation of the existing concrete is a key step in any concrete repair. If the concrete is not prepared properly, it will not bond well to the new material. This will result in the repair failing quickly and costing more money. The preparation process removes all damaged and deteriorated concrete to make sure that the surface to which the repair will be applied is solid and sound. It will also remove any coatings, sealers, dirt, grease or oil that are on the surface of the concrete.
The prepared surface must be free from any water, salts, or chlorides that may damage the new coating, concrete repair materials, or even the concrete itself. This can be achieved by using a chemical treatment, or by removing the affected areas of concrete with a power grinder and then washing them down.
The concrete should be brought to a Saturated Surface Dry (SSD) condition after cleaning and profiling. This ensures that the repair material will not absorb water from the concrete, which could lead to poor adhesion and void formation. It also ensures that the new repair material contacts the existing concrete evenly and thoroughly, preventing weak spots or air pockets that can lead to premature failure.
Depending on the type of repair, the concrete may need to be prepared by mechanical means in order to open up the cracks for good adhesion. For example, epoxy injection can be used to repair cracks by welding them together, but this is only an effective method of repairing structurally weak concrete if the cracks are wide enough to allow water to flow through them.
All patch repair materials must be properly cured to develop a high-performance bond with the existing concrete. Curing can be shortened or skipped if workers are eager to finish the job, but this will ultimately reduce the life of the repairs and will require more time and expense in the future. Proper curing will also help the patch repair materials withstand exposure to weathering conditions and other service conditions. For example, a long moist curing period can slow down the loss of water from the repaired areas and prevent the surface from drying out and becoming de-bonding.
Repair Materials
A quality repair material is vital to the success of a concrete repair. The selection of a repair material requires consideration of its strength, durability, drying shrinkage, permeability, thermal expansion, elastic modulus and chemical properties as well as its cost. In addition, it must be compatible with the existing concrete.
Portland cement mortar and grout are the most common repair materials used to restore concrete structures. These repair materials are generally based on Portland cement and can be modified by the inclusion of blast furnace slag, fly ash or silica fume to improve their performance. However, the bond between these materials and the concrete substrate is poor. This incompatibility leads to stress concentration at the interface and debonding of the repaired area [62, 63].
Cracks are a natural feature of the aging process of concrete, and they can be structurally significant or not. The cracking is typically load-induced or related to intrinsic volume changes of the concrete such as drying shrinkage and thermal expansion. Cracking may also be caused by construction errors or other factors.
When selecting a repair material for repairing cracked concrete, consider the size of the crack, its location and whether it is active or dormant. For active cracks, a flexible repair material is recommended to allow for movement. Using a rigid repair material will usually result in the formation of new cracks at the interface of the old and repaired areas.
The choice of a repair material should also be based on the condition of the substrate to which it will be applied. For example, if the repaired surface will be subjected to cold weather, the repair material should be able to withstand low temperatures and freeze-thaw cycles. It should also be durable against chemicals and abrasion.
Research has shown that the surface roughness of the substrate plays an important role in the shear bond strength between the repair material and the existing concrete. Various surface preparation techniques can be applied to roughen the existing concrete to enhance the shear bond strength, such as mechanical grinding and shotblasting. However, sandblasting was found to be the most effective method of increasing the shear bond strength, probably because it creates an uneven surface which increases the mechanical interlock of the repair material with the substrate.
Applying the Repair
Concrete repair is an essential part of the process of maintaining a building or structure. It is the process of restoring deteriorated concrete to its original condition by filling in damaged areas with a repair material. The resulting repair can be either cosmetic or structural. It can restore the appearance of a structure to its original state, or it can repair a structural defect, such as a crack, by adding strength to a weak area.
The first step in repairing concrete is to assess the extent of the damage and determine what type of repair is required. This will be determined by the function of the concrete structure and will range from cosmetic to structural reinstatement. The underlying substrate will also be a factor in this determination. In addition, the type of repair will be affected by environmental factors such as dimensional characteristics (drying shrinkage), thermal coefficients and freeze/thaw resistance.
Once the concrete has been identified as requiring a repair, it is necessary to clean the surface to remove dust, debris, oils and existing paint. This is important because the repair material will not adhere properly to a dirty or contaminated substrate. Physical methods such as sand blasting, grinding or pressure washing can be used for this purpose. The surface of the concrete should then be profiled to create a roughened texture to improve the mechanical bond between the repair material and the existing concrete.
This will help to prevent the repair material from penetrating into the existing concrete and causing further deterioration. Once the concrete is cleaned and profiled it should be brought to a “Saturated Surface Dry” (SSD) condition. This is important because the dry concrete will rob water from the new repair material, which could result in an improper curing and a weak bond.
The final preparation that must be made is to mark the area to be repaired. This will help to ensure that the correct amount of repair material is applied, and it will also reduce debonding around edges. A hammer and chisel can be used to cut away the concrete from the damaged area, or for larger areas a power saw with a diamond blade might be required.
Post-Repair Maintenance
Concrete surfaces are exposed to heavy loads and weathering on a daily basis, leading to natural wear and tear. The deterioration of these structures can lead to structural damage, a loss of safety and visual appeal, and increased maintenance costs. In order to maintain the durability and visual appeal of these surfaces, it is crucial that they are properly maintained with high-quality repair products and proper application techniques.
There are a wide variety of repair methods available to address the different types of damage in concrete surfaces. The method chosen should be appropriate to the type of damage being addressed. For example, using surface repairs for structural cracks can compromise the strength of the concrete.
Identifying the cause of the damage is also essential. There are several common types of concrete damage, including plastic-shrinkage cracks, hairline cracks, and surface spalling. Plastic-shrinkage cracks are small and short in length and appear in the concrete as it is curing. They typically form due to the settling of the concrete or changes in the surrounding environment.
Hairline cracks are shallow and thin in width and tend to be more widespread than plastic-shrinkage cracks. They are often caused by natural settling and can become larger over time. Surface spalling is the result of the deterioration of the concrete’s outer layer. It can occur in a single area or throughout the entire structure.
Crack fillers are an effective solution for cracks that are minor in size but can exacerbate into more extensive problems if left unattended. These crack fillers contain a liquid formula that binds to the cracked concrete to restore its structural integrity.
Epoxy resin injections are another effective repair solution for concrete surfaces. These injections use a two-part epoxy that bonds to the crack surfaces to bring them together. Lastly, polyurethane foam injections are a great option for fixing voids and holes in concrete. This material is injected through ports in the damaged concrete and expands to fill the voids.
No matter what type of concrete surface you need to repair, it is important to follow these tips to ensure that the process goes smoothly and the results are successful. By taking the necessary precautions, hiring professional help when needed, utilizing high-quality repair products, and practicing regular maintenance practices, it is easy to keep your concrete looking beautiful for years to come.
How to Get Rid of Plumbing Problems
Plumbing is the system that delivers potable water, removes waste water and ensures sanitation in buildings. It involves pipes, valves, fixtures and tanks. Professional plumbers are able to diagnose and repair any problems in the plumbing system. Contact Plumbing Express, Inc. for professional help.
Use a commercial drain cleaner like Liquid-Plumr to get rid of hair, soap scum, gunk and more in the shower, sink or toilet. Follow the instructions on the label and flush the drain with hot water afterward.
Preventive maintenance involves performing tasks like cleaning, adjustments and minor repairs to equipment on a scheduled basis. This prevents major equipment failure and downtime, which can be very costly for businesses. Creating a preventive maintenance program requires comprehensive data about your assets, including details on their age and usage history. It also takes into account the specific needs of your team, such as their skill sets and needs for resources. Penske’s fleet specialists can work with you to create a customized maintenance plan that best fits your business.
Routine drain maintenance keeps the risk of clogs at bay, reducing the need for expensive repairs and property damage. It helps keep water and waste flowing freely throughout the system and avoids unpleasant odors from stagnant, foul-smelling wastewater. In addition, it extends the lifespan of the plumbing system and reduces the need for replacement.
When issues arise, prompt identification and intervention can prevent them from becoming worse, such as pipe corrosion, overflows, or leaks. A drain cleaning specialist can identify these issues during regular inspections and address them before they become serious.
Having a dependable preventative maintenance plan in place is the most effective way to manage your facility’s plumbing. By identifying issues and scheduling preventative maintenance, you can reduce unplanned downtime, backlog, miscommunication and errors and increase the efficiency of your maintenance operation.
Several preventative maintenance strategies can help you keep your drains clean and free from blockages, such as monthly inspections and hot water flushing. You should also try to avoid disposing of items in the kitchen sink that are not meant to be thrown away, such as grease or coffee grounds, and only flush toilet paper, human waste and items that are labeled as “flushable.” Finally, a mixture of baking soda and vinegar can help dissolve and dislodge hair, soap scum, and other blockages near the surface of your plumbing pipes.
Hydro-Jetting
If you’re struggling with a blocked drain that just won’t budge, it could be time to call in the big guns. Hydro jetting uses a powerful stream of water to thoroughly clean pipes and eliminate blockages. This high-pressure method of cleaning is effective for a wide range of clogs, from hair and soap scum to grease and other fats. It’s also more suitable for older, more fragile pipes than traditional mechanical clog removal methods.
Before attacking a pipe with the high-pressure jet nozzle, a plumber will first use a video inspection to determine the severity and location of the clog. They’ll also take into account the condition of the pipes, determining the appropriate psi of the water jet. Depending on the condition of the pipes, a plumber may need to use extra equipment or take additional precautions before using the nozzle.
Unlike the drain snake, which can only grab so much debris at once, hydro jetting thoroughly cleans a drain line and eliminates buildup from its sides. This prevents future blockages and reduces the chances of an immediate re-clog. It’s also more cost-effective than drain snaking since it requires less energy and doesn’t involve chemicals.
Over time, a wide variety of debris accumulates in drain lines, causing sluggish water flow and even backups. While store-bought drain cleaners can help with some clogs, they often don’t work on more stubborn blockages, especially those caused by grease and other fats or sludge. Hydro jetting can tackle all of these, as well as clogs from tree roots. It’s important to have a professional handle this procedure, though, as incorrect pressure levels can damage delicate pipes and lead to expensive replacements down the line.
Plumber’s Snake
If a drain clog is too difficult to clear with a plunger, you might want to try using a plumber’s snake. Also known as a drain auger, this tool is a long flexible cable with a conical-shaped “auger” on its end that works to dislodge and remove blockages from pipes. The way it works is simple: just feed the snake into a drain and slowly crank the handle, letting the cable spin inside the pipe to break up or hook onto clogs.
Choosing the Right Snake
There are several factors to consider when selecting a plumber’s snake for your home. First, you’ll need to take into account the type of clog, as different snakes are designed for different types of obstructions. For example, if you’re trying to clear a grease or soap buildup, a smaller diameter snake might be more effective. Similarly, if you’re dealing with a larger solid obstruction, a thicker cable and larger auger head might be needed.
You’ll also need to decide whether you prefer a manual or electric model. Manual models require you to unroll and crank the snake by hand, whereas electric augers allow you to operate them with a switch. Finally, you’ll want to consider your budget. Professional-grade tools can be expensive, but they’re a great investment if you plan on using them often.
Once you’ve chosen your snake, it’s important to know how to use it correctly to avoid damaging your pipes. For instance, if the snake becomes stuck, it’s best not to yank on it. This could cause the head of the snake to bend or break, which can further impede your efforts. Instead, try applying gentle pressure and slowly rotating the handle to work around the obstruction.
Baking Soda & Vinegar
The combination of baking soda and vinegar is a natural, safe and cheap alternative to chemical drain cleaners. This household mixture produces a fizzy, bubbling reaction that can dislodge clogs and break them up into smaller pieces, making them easier to flush away with water. Baking soda is a base (sodium bicarbonate) while vinegar is an acid, and when they interact, they release carbon dioxide gas. You’re likely familiar with this reaction from your 6th grade science experiments on homemade volcanoes! The carbon dioxide also helps lift stains and marks from surfaces, and it can even cut through grease.
Baking soda and vinegar won’t dissolve hair or other organic materials that build up to create a full clog, but it can help with other causes of blocked drains. For example, if your sink is slow to drain, the baking soda and vinegar can break down mineral deposits that have collected inside the pipes.
To use baking soda and vinegar to unclog a drain, first turn on the hot water in your sink or tub and let it run for a minute. Next, pour in 1/2 cup of baking soda and follow with a cup of vinegar. Cover the drain with a plug and wait 10 minutes or until you hear fizzing. Once the fizzing has stopped, flush the drain with another cup of hot water.
Be sure to use only this method for minor clogs because the vinegar can damage some types of pipes, especially older ones made from metal. If you have a serious blockage, call a plumber for professional assistance. In the meantime, be sure to clean your drains regularly by pouring baking soda down them and following it with boiling water to prevent clogs.
Bleach
Whether it’s an old blue and white bottle of bleach in your cleaning cupboard or the chemical solution poured down a drain because you can’t find anything else to do with it – bleach should never be poured down any of your home’s plumbing lines. Bleach has some useful properties when diluted and used on household surfaces but it’s far from the best drain cleaner for your pipes.
Bleach is a powerful disinfectant that kills germs and can be helpful in deodorizing kitchen benchtops and rubbish bins but it is not a good choice for unclogging drains. Pouring any type of bleach down a clogged drain can actually cause more damage than just the immediate issue. Bleach is corrosive and can eat away at metal wastewater pipes, causing them to deteriorate. Consistently dumping bleach down your drains will only accelerate the deterioration and may eventually lead to a broken or burst pipe, costing you money and potentially causing serious health problems for you and your family.
It also destroys the beneficial bacteria in septic systems that break down waste, reducing solids and preventing buildup within the septic tank. The loss of these vital microorganisms can result in less efficient processing of waste, clogged drains and increased frequency of pumping. This contaminated waste can seep into groundwater, contaminating drinking water sources and harming aquatic ecosystems.
Why Radon Testing Is Important Before Buying a Home
Radon is a dangerous gas that can cause lung cancer. If you’re thinking about buying a home, it’s a good idea to have radon testing done first.
Radon Testing Colorado Springs places a detector in the basement or lowest occupied level, away from drafts, radiators, and exterior walls.
Long-term tests measure radon levels over at least three months. During that time, a small testing device is placed in your home or workplace and left undisturbed for several months, with the results mailed to a laboratory for analysis. Long-term testing allows for more accurate measurement because radon levels fluctuate daily and seasonally, depending on weather conditions and ventilation habits.
Using short-term test kits is the fastest way to find out your building’s radon levels, but they provide only a snapshot of your indoor radon concentration. Radon levels can also vary daily, depending on the operation of furnaces and fireplaces, changing weather conditions, and opening/closing windows and doors.
The EPA says that short-term tests can miss spikes in radon levels and, therefore, may provide inaccurate readings. As a result, homeowners may spend money on radon mitigation when their risk is low or need to pay more to lower their risks when they could have saved thousands of dollars in unnecessary costs.
Even non-smoking radon exposure can cause Stage IV lung cancer in humans, and that’s why accurate information about radon is so important. The perceived benefit of getting a test result faster is rarely worth the cost of compromising accuracy when testing for the most dangerous gas known to humankind.
The best radon test is one that is conducted for a year. A lab will analyze the accumulated data, which will give a more accurate picture of your radon exposure and your radon levels.
Most long-term test kits use an alpha track detector, which measures radon levels by measuring the damage caused to a thin film in a detector for 91 days to a year. These devices are typically available at home centers and hardware stores or online, and they can be purchased for around $70 each, including shipping to the lab.
Regardless of the type of radon test you choose, it’s a good idea to perform your tests during the heating season. This is because radon levels are higher during the winter when people are more likely to be inside.
Short-term tests measure radon levels for 48 hours or less. They are quick, inexpensive, and easy to use. They are the method most often used to test for radon before purchasing a home or as a follow-up to a long-term test. Short-term testing kits are available at home centers, hardware stores, and online retailers. They contain some containers filled with activated charcoal, which absorbs the radon gas in the air throughout the test period. The canister is then sealed and sent to a lab for analysis.
Most short-term radon test kits use an electronic sensor to measure the alpha particles produced during radon decay. The sensors are placed in the lowest part of a home (usually the basement), where people spend at least 4 hours daily. The device must remain undisturbed during the test (although picking it up to dust underneath occasionally won’t hurt). The sensors are then mailed to a lab for processing.
The EPA recommends that you test any time of year. However, the heating season is typically the best time for testing a home. This is because a house is heated and ventilated more during this time, so the radon level is likely higher than at other times of the year.
Unfortunately, the accuracy of short-term radon testing kits is limited. They can be inaccurate by up to a factor of 2 compared to long-term tests. This is because radon levels vary widely from day to night and month to month, and the short-term tests provide only a snapshot of one moment in time.
It is also important to note that a short-term test is inaccurate enough to determine if a home’s radon level is above or below the EPA action level of 4 pCi/L. This is because a short-term test does not account for how the homeowner uses their home, which can change the radon concentration significantly.
Therefore, in addition to a long-term test, you should always retest your home before and after making any changes. This includes modifying the ventilation system, finishing a basement, adding an energy-efficient heating or cooling unit, and changing any other factors that could alter your home’s average exposure to radon.
Radon is a naturally occurring gas in the atmosphere that can cause lung cancer when found in higher concentrations in homes. You can’t see, smell, or taste radon, so the only way to know whether your home has high levels is to test it. Tests are relatively cheap and easy, making radon testing an affordable option for homeowners.
A radon mitigation system can cost from $300 to $1,300, depending on the size of your house and how it is constructed. A professional will inspect your house to determine the best type of system to install. They will also use diagnostic tests to help them design the right system for your home. These tests may include a continuous radon monitor (CRM) test, a charcoal canister test, or an electret ion detector. A CRM is an electronic device that requires annual calibration and certification by a trained operator. These devices are often used in real estate transactions and typically have a higher price tag than short-term tests.
The cost of a short-term test can range from $10 to $25. The most common method involves placing a small container filled with activated charcoal in the home for 2 to 90 days. This device then measures the radon level inside the home by analyzing the air in the container. This information is then sent to a lab for analysis. Other methods for short-term radon testing are available through some DIY test kits. These usually consist of a test tube or canister with a tamper-proof seal that houses an electret ion detector, which is powered by a battery and has a statically charged Teflon disc that attracts ions from decaying radon molecules. These devices can be purchased online or from most hardware and home improvement stores.
While the increased radon testing rates in Kentucky following the release of geologic maps was encouraging, more research is needed to examine the long-term effects of this communication strategy on testing rates and on radon mitigation rates, lung cancer incidence, and the economic value of avoided radon-related premature deaths and lung disease. A more integrated approach to radon outreach could improve radon testing rates, including incorporating the geologic map-based infographics with other initiatives, such as free radon test kits at pharmacies, primary care clinics, and tobacco treatment services.
Inhaling radon can lead to lung cancer in people who smoke or are at higher risk due to genetics. It also can damage other organs, such as the kidneys and ovaries. In general, the risk of getting cancer increases by about 16% for every 100 Bq/m3 increase in long-term average radon levels. Radon can enter homes through groundwater or from gaps in walls or floors. A home’s geology, building materials, and ventilation affect radon levels.
Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in people who don’t smoke and the first for those who do. It’s an invisible, odorless, tasteless gas that can build up in a house without anyone knowing it is present. The only way to tell if your home has elevated radon levels is to have it tested.
Tests can be done by professional inspectors or with do-it-yourself kits you buy at a hardware store. A professional will ensure the device is placed in the best location based on your home’s configuration and can reduce interference or “measurement noise.” Professional tests are usually more accurate than DIY kits, but both can help you determine if your home has high radon levels.
Radon levels are expressed in picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L). The EPA recommends that homeowners take action to reduce radon levels in the home if they get results above four pCi/L. If you’re thinking of buying a home, consider having it tested before making an offer. The results can have a significant impact on the final price of the property.
For the duration of a short-term test, it’s important to keep windows and doors closed as much as possible. Do not operate fans, use the fireplace or wood stove, paint the home, or make major remodels that could alter the airflow. The same goes for a long-term test, which should be conducted in the lowest livable area of the house.
A radon test should be re-run if it’s done in winter, as radon levels tend to be higher during that time of year. A retest will help you confirm whether or not radon levels have decreased since the initial test and can provide a more accurate reading of your home’s radon level.